Europe of Cultures - The new Spanish creators

Context

When thinking about the great fashion parade theatres, we immediately think of Paris, Milan or London but very rarely Madrid or Barcelona. In fact, Spain has seemed to have been absent from the deluxe prêt-à-porter and haute-couture, but is today showing a fierce new desire to catch up. This desire doesn't just come from the creators, but also from the politicians who are very conscious of the economic manna that this prestigious industry can bring. Beyond straight profit, there's also an international image to win back.

Side by side with producers, plasticians and architects, the Spanish creators want to bring Spain out of the cheap and sunny clichés which often reduce the country to just bullfighting, flamenco and tapas. The Spanish eclipse of the fashion world is nevertheless relative. Indeed, Paco Rabanne and Balenciaga are some of the great designers, but they have prospered far from home, fleeing the Franco dictatorship (1939-1975). Thus the return of the political pendulum.

Today, every effort has been made to promote creation. Local governments give grants to stylists and cat-walks at the risk of institutionalising the sector. This makes it ever harder for Manuel Pertegaz, Elio Berhanyer, Victorio & Lucchino or José Castro to make their names on the international scene, which notably contains Iberian fashions from the big commercial brands like Zara and Mango.

Cécile Olive

Transcription

Daniel Bilalian

There. And now for a fashion segment. After the women, the men. The ready-to-wear fair of clothing designers has opened at porte de Versailles, in Paris. We find the Italians there, of course, the French, both of them the usual leaders, but some small newbies are starting to appear. The Spanish designers. Reporters: Yoba Grégoire, Didier Rampo. Look.

Yoba Grégoire

The most Parisian Spaniard is him, Adolfo Dominguez. He's the only one from his country to have a fashion show in Paris. He's the only one to be well established in our capital. He made a remarkable breakthrough in Japan and in America. And he learned the European lesson especially well: to get your spot in the 1992 sun, you need luxury.

Adolfo Dominguez

During the last 15 years, after the death of Franco of course, we opened ourselves up, and we burst out. But anyways, there are always traditions in all domains. We're not the pioneers. Of course, we already have an insufficient tradition, in the fashion industry, for example, not as sufficient as the French, but we have a certain tradition. We're not coming out of nowhere. But anyways, of course, we've improved ourselves very much because, obviously, the competition has greatly improved over the last fifteen years.

Yoba Grégoire

Armand Basi and Antonio Miro are two Catalan designers that are especially well known for their avant-garde fashion which is very popular in Holland, for example.

Unknown

The Spanish, we really believe in them because they innovate more than the Italians, for example. I think that before 1992, they will have a significant role in European fashion. In any case, in our country we like them.

Yoba Grégoire

His creations are Catalonian as well. One comment: there is no specific Spanish fashion.

Roser Marcé

The Spanish style, there is a Mediterranean influence with the colours. Spain is well known for its quality, for the quality of its fabrics. But I think that the fashion and style have to be international.